Crossword Genius

Gourmet in despair, oddly lacking salt? (7)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

epicure

'gourmet' is the definition.
(synonyms)

'despair oddly lacking salt?' is the wordplay.
'oddly lacking' indicates alternate letters (letters in odd-numbered positions removed).
'salt?' becomes 'cure' (preserve with salt).
The alternate letters of 'despair' are 'epi'.
'epi'+'cure'='EPICURE'

'in' is the link.

(Other definitions for epicure that I've seen before include "Person with fastidious tase in food and wine" , "Gourmet" , "Lover of fine foods" , "Choosy eater" , "Gourmand" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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