Gourmet in despair, oddly lacking salt? (7)
I believe the answer is:
epicure
'gourmet' is the definition.
(synonyms)
'despair oddly lacking salt?' is the wordplay.
'oddly lacking' means one should take alternating letters (letters in odd-numbered positions removed).
'salt?' becomes 'cure' (preserve with salt).
The alternate letters of 'despair' are 'epi'.
'epi'+'cure'='EPICURE'
'in' is the link.
(Other definitions for epicure that I've seen before include "Person with fastidious tase in food and wine" , "Gourmet" , "Lover of fine foods" , "Choosy eater" , "Gourmand" .)