Grand girl, high in the epicure's appreciation (4)

I believe the answer is:

gamy

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'high in the epicure's appreciation' is the definition.
'gamy' can be an answer for 'high' (I've seen this before). I am not certain of the 'in the epicure's appreciation' bit.

'grand girl' is the wordplay.
'grand' becomes 'g' (G is short for grand as in a thousand).
'girl' becomes 'amy' ().
'g'+'amy'='GAMY'

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for gamy that I've seen before include "high" , "Strongly flavoured" , "Plucky" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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