Grape variety in rural area finally overlooked by characters in street maps? (6)

I believe the answer is:

shiraz

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'grape variety' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

(Other definitions for shiraz that I've seen before include "18 [WINE]" , "Variety of black grape" , "Iranian city - variety of wine grape" , "Variety of red wine" , "Iran city; Aussie grape" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.

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