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Have a go at and complain - it's a British tradition (5,4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

roast beef

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'a british tradition' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I cannot see how they can define each other.

'have a go at and complain' is the wordplay.
'have a go at' becomes 'roast' (I've seen this before).
'and' means one lot of letters go next to another.
'complain' becomes 'beef' (beefing is a kind of complaining).
'roast'+'beef'='ROAST-BEEF'

'it's' is the link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for roast beef that I've seen before include "Typical English dish" , "Traditional English food" , "Sunday meat?" , "part of lunch for Sun?" , "Traditional English dish" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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