Helmut —, chancellor of West Germany from 1982-90 (4)
I believe the answer is:
kohl
(Other definitions for kohl that I've seen before include "'Cosmetic preparation, to outline eyes in black (4)'" , "Former German Chancellor" , "Black eye-liner; ex-German Chancellor" , "Helmut --, German statesman" , "Black powder used as eye make-up" .)