I leave country hotel to find wine (5)

I believe the answer is:

syrah

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'wine' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

(Other definitions for syrah that I've seen before include "Red grape variety" , "Black grape variety" , "Grape variety (Shiraz)" , "Dark-skinned red wine grape" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.

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