Crossword Genius

I tucked into banned item, with spinning head (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

onion

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'head' is the definition.
(informal term for someone's head or brain)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for onion that I've seen before include "Edible tear-jerker" , "Eye-watering vegetable" , "Head (slang); vegetable" , "veggie" , "Bulb used as a vegetable" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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