Important figure in the Met once in action, wandering round capital of Spain (9)

I believe the answer is:

toscanini

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But I can't explain it at all! Could you help me understand?

(Other definitions for toscanini that I've seen before include "Old conductor" , "Music director" , "He conducted" , "Arturo --, Italian conductor" , "Bare rock formation" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.

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