Crossword Genius

In the kitchen, it has its upside downs (3,5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

egg timer

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'in' is the definition.
Both the definition and answer are singular nouns.
Perhaps they are linked in a way I don't understand?

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for egg timer that I've seen before include "device for boiler" , "Possible kitchenware" , "Sand-filled device traditionally used in the kitchen" , "Small kitchen sandglass" , "Meter gig for measuring the boiling of hen-fruit" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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