Irascible but not tasteless (7)

I believe the answer is:

peppery

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'irascible' is the definition.
Both the definition and answer are adjectives. Perhaps they are linked in a way I don't understand?

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for peppery that I've seen before include "Irritable" , "Very spicy" , "Highly spiced" , "Quick-tempered" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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