Crossword Genius

Italian food not found in opening section of dictionary? (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

pasta

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'italian food' is the definition.
(type of Italian food)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for pasta that I've seen before include "Shaped and dried dough" , "Italian cooking staple" , "dish from Italy" , "Italian dough" , "Tapas (anag)" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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