Crossword Genius

It's heady and intoxicating (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

beer

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If this is the answer I cannot explain how the clue works.

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(Other definitions for beer that I've seen before include "Drink with a head" , "Fermented malt and hops" , "Ale, lager etc" , "Perhaps bitter" , "eg Bitter" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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