Crossword Genius

It's more appetising when in the hole (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

toad

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'it's more appetising when' is the definition.
I can't tell whether this definition defines the answer.

'the hole' is the wordplay.
'the' becomes 't' (the is pronounced as a 't' sound in some dialects).
'hole' becomes 'oad' (I can't justify this - if you can you should give a lot more credence to this answer).
't'+'oad'='TOAD'

'in' is the link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for toad that I've seen before include "Warty amphibian" , "Loathsome creature" , "Warty creature" , "Wind in Willows hall-owner" , "A loathsome person" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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