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Jelly equally good with custard or cream, originally (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

aspic

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'jelly' is the definition.
(I know that aspic is a type of jelly)

'equally good with custard or cream originally' is the wordplay.
I cannot quite understand how this works, but
'equally' could be 'as' (synonyms) and 'as' is present in the answer.
'good' could be 'pi' (old-fashioned term for pious) and 'pi' is present in the answer.
A single letter 'c' remains which might be clued in a way I don't see.
This may be the basis of the clue (or it may be nonsense).

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for aspic that I've seen before include "that's clear?" , "Ending of Marlowe's thriller" , "Jelly based on fish or meat stock" , "Clear meat or fish jelly" , "Setter" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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