Lamb Smith cooking doesn't require starter (4)

I believe the answer is:

elia

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'lamb' is the definition.
(pseudonym of essayist Charles Lamb)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for elia that I've seen before include "1A [SHEEPISH] part of 26 [LAMB-DA]" , "Essays of - (Charles Lamb)" , "Pen-name of essayist Charles Lamb" , "Charles Lamb's pen name" , "Pseudonym adopted by Charles Lamb" .)

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