Material dug the wrong way (5)
I believe the answer is:
denim
'material' is the definition.
(type of fabric)
'dug the wrong way' is the wordplay.
'dug' becomes 'mined' (dug into the ground).
'the wrong way' shows that the letters should be reversed in order.
'mined' reversed gives 'DENIM'.
(Other definitions for denim that I've seen before include "dark blue material" , "Thick cotton cloth" , "Hard-wearing cotton fabric" , "Hard-wearing clothing material, twilled cotton" , "Durable material" .)