Material dug up the wrong way (5)
I believe the answer is:
denim
'material' is the definition.
(type of fabric)
'dug up the wrong way' is the wordplay.
'dug up' becomes 'mined' (I've seen this in another clue).
'the wrong way' says the letters should be written backwards.
'mined' back-to-front is 'DENIM'.
(Other definitions for denim that I've seen before include "Hard-wearing cotton fabric" , "Tough cotton fabric" , "Cotton twill fabric" , "Coarse durable twill-weave cotton fabric" , "dark blue material" .)