Crossword Genius

Not one criticism of thin wine? (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

nobody

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This could be a double definition.

'not one' is the first definition.
(thesaurus)

'criticism of thin wine?' is the second definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I can't see how they can define each other.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for nobody that I've seen before include "problem for Morse?" , "Not a soul" , "Person without influence" , "The Diary of a --- (George &Weedon Grossmith)" , "Pooter as a diarist" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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