Note this dessert? (4,4)

I believe the answer is:

eton mess

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'dessert?' is the definition.
(type of dessert or pudding)

'note' is the wordplay.
I cannot quite see how this works, but
an anagram of 'note' is 'eton' which is present in the answer.
The remaining letters 'mess' is a valid word which might be clued in a way I don't see.
This explanation may well be incorrect...

'this' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Another definition for eton mess that I've seen is " Sweet".)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.

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