Crossword Genius

One doing safety test for toasted bananas? (4-6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

food-taster

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'one doing safety test' is the definition.
I know nothing about this answer so I can't tell whether it can be defined by this definition.

'toasted bananas?' is the wordplay.
I cannot quite see how this works, but
an anagram of 'toasted' is 'odtaste' which is located in the answer.
The remaining letters 'for' is a valid word which might be clued in a way I don't understand.
This may be the basis of the clue (or it may be nonsense).

'for' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

I've seen this clue in The Irish Times.
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