Crossword Genius

One rubbish bitter served up by a bistro (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

trattoria

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'bistro' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

'one rubbish bitter served up by a' is the wordplay.
'one rubbish' becomes 'rot' (both can mean nonsense).
'bitter' becomes 'tart' (tart can mean bitter-tasting).
'served up' is a reversal indicator (in a down clue, going upwards).
'by a' becomes 'ia' (I can't explain this - if you can you should give a lot more credence to this answer).
'rot'+'tart'='rottart'
'rottart' back-to-front is 'trattor'.
'trattor'+'ia'='TRATTORIA'

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for trattoria that I've seen before include "Place to eat" , "Italian eating establishment" , "where Italians eat" , "Italian restaurant" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times and The Sunday Times.
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