Crossword Genius

Pain after one European abandons environmentally-sound grape variety (8)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

grenache

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'grape variety' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for grenache that I've seen before include "Black grape variety" , "grape for wine" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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