Crossword Genius

Pan, and what may be in it? (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

roast

'pan' is the definition.
(both can mean to criticise)

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

(Other definitions for roast that I've seen before include "Carpet" , "Cooked like chestnuts tonight" , "Cook (meat) over a fire" , "Give a telling off to - cook" , "Criticise severely" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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