Pan for cook (5)

I believe the answer is:

roast

I believe this is a double definition.

'pan' is the first definition.
(both can mean to criticise)

'for cook' is the second definition.
(roasting is a kind of cooking)

(Other definitions for roast that I've seen before include "Cooked meat; criticise" , "Traditional dinner" , "Carpet" , "The Sunday -----, with all the trimmings!" , "Oven-cooked joint" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard and The Times.

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