Crossword Genius

Pepper that's sort of special around mid-Wales (8)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

allspice

'pepper' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

'sort of special around mid-wales' is the wordplay.
'sort of' indicates an anagram.
'around' is an insertion indicator.
'mid' means to look at the middle letters.
The central letter of 'wales' is 'l'.
'special' anagrammed gives 'alspice'.
'alspice' placed around 'l' is 'ALLSPICE'.

'that's' is the link.

(Other definitions for allspice that I've seen before include "Pimento or Jamaica pepper" , "Aromatic dried fruit of a Caribbean tree" , "Dried aromatic fruit from the West Indies" , "fragrant plant" , "Pill case (anag.)" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.
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