Perfection in a fruit tart? (5-3)

I believe the answer is:

apple-pie

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'fruit tart?' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

(Other definitions for apple-pie that I've seen before include "(Characteristically American) sweet" , "Fruit dessert (with order suggesting perfection?)" , "Sweet pastry dish" , "Perfect order -- bed jokily made" , "Common dessert" .)

I've seen this clue in the Sydney Morning Herald.

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