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Piece covering biscuit - bourbon might be in it (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

manhattan

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'piece' is the definition.
The definition and answer can be both things that one consumes for nourishment as well as being singular nouns.
Perhaps there's an association between them I don't understand?

'covering biscuit bourbon might be in it' is the wordplay.
'covering' becomes 'mat' (mat is a kind of covering).
'biscuit' becomes 'tan' (I've seen this in another clue).
'bourbon might' becomes 'nha' (I can't justify this - if you can you should believe this answer much more).
'be in it' is an insertion indicator.
'mat'+'tan'='mattan'
'mattan' placed around 'nha' is 'MANHATTAN'.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for manhattan that I've seen before include "Cocktail consisting of whisky, vermouth and bitters" , "Island of New York - cocktail" , "intoxicating drink" , "One of the five boroughs of New York City" , "Vermouth and whisky cocktail - New York borough" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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