Piece of seafood sparkles after being shelled (6)

I believe the answer is:

winkle

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'piece of seafood' is the definition.
'winkle' can be an answer for 'seafood' (winkle is a kind of seafood). I'm not sure about the 'piece of' bit.

I can't explain the remainder of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for winkle that I've seen before include "Edible shellfish" , "Spiral-shelled mollusc" , "Small mollusc" , "Gastropod" , "Sea snail" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.

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