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Place to cook when once more missing home (3)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

aga

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'place to cook' is the definition.
I can't tell whether this definition defines the answer.

'once more missing home' is the wordplay.
'once more' becomes 'again' (synonyms).
'missing' indicates named letters should be taken away.
'home' becomes 'in' ('he's home' can mean 'he's in').
'again' with 'in' taken out is 'AGA'.

'when' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for aga that I've seen before include "Oven" , "... Khan is a spiritual Muslim leader" , "Turkish title and metal stove" , "Overseas commander" , "Muslim title and cooking stove" .)

I've seen this clue in The Irish Times.
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