Pleat ecru cheongsam skirts (5)

I believe the answer is:

ruche

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'pleat' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

'ecru cheongsam skirts' is the wordplay.
'RUCHE' is hidden within the letters.
However, I am not sure how this is indicated.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for ruche that I've seen before include "frilly stuff" , "strip of lawn?" , "frilly lace" , "Piece of lawn" , "Feature of fabric" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.

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