Crossword Genius

Quality of wine society? (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

body

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'society?' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for body that I've seen before include "Corpse; full quality of wine" , "organisation" , "Hare or Burke, for example" , "Corpse; full flavour" , "Group of persons thought of as an entity" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.
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