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Quiet river circles wood where food may be rare (10)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

steakhouse

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'where food may be rare' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I don't understand how one could define the other.

'quiet river circles wood' is the wordplay.
'quiet' becomes 'sh' (both can be said to tell someone to be quiet).
'river' becomes 'ouse' (Yorkshire river).
'circles' is an insertion indicator.
'wood' becomes 'teak' (type of timber).
'sh'+'ouse'='shouse'
'shouse' going around 'teak' is 'STEAKHOUSE'.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for steakhouse that I've seen before include "Scene of grilling" , "Eating-place" , "Specialist restaurant" , "Meat restaurant" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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