Crossword Genius

Relay rage cost starter in Paris? (8)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

escargot

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'paris?' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I cannot see how they can define each other.

'relay rage cost starter' is the wordplay.
'rage cost' can be anagrammed to 'ESCARGOT'.
However, I'm unsure how the anagram is indicated.

'in' is the link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for escargot that I've seen before include "Cart goes carrying edible French snail" , "Hardly fast food" , "French food" , "One continually moving house" , "An edible snail from France" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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