Relish for starter of lobster is missing - where's the gratification in that? (5)

I believe the answer is:

enjoy

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'relish' is the definition.
('enjoy' can be a synonym of 'relish')

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for enjoy that I've seen before include "Appreciate" , "Delight in (something)" , "Dig" , "Take delight in" , "Have the benefit of" .)

I've seen this clue in the Irish Times (Crosaire) and the Irish Times.

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