Crossword Genius

Remove hydrogen from milk drink to make wine (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

sake

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'wine' is the definition.

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

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(Other definitions for sake that I've seen before include "Japanese alcoholic drink made from rice" , "Benefit - Japanese drink" , "Benefit - Japanese liquor" , "Japanese rice wine" , "account" .)

I've seen this clue in the Sydney Morning Herald.
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