Crossword Genius

Reserved like gin in champagne! (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

silent

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'reserved' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for silent that I've seen before include "Inaudible" , "Wordless" , "Taciturn" , "Dumb" , "Listen in order to be quiet" .)

I've seen this clue in The Hindu.
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