Said how awful the ham was, cooked? (7)

I believe the answer is:

roasted

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'cooked?' is the definition.
('roasted' can be similar in meaning to 'cooked')

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

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(Other definitions for roasted that I've seen before include "Severely reprimanded" , "Cooked (like a joint)" , "Cooked (like chestnuts)" , "Oven-cooked" , "Cooked (turkey?)" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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