Crossword Genius

Seafood that’s variable filling roll, first wiped (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

oyster

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'seafood' is the definition.
(oyster is a type of seafood)

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for oyster that I've seen before include "Succulent shellfish" , "Bivalve that grows pearls" , "Seafood item sometimes eaten alive" , "Pearl-producing shellfish" , "Shade of greyish white" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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