Slow food in France (8)

I believe the answer is:

escargot

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'slow food' is the definition.
'escargot' can be an answer for 'food' (escargot is a kind of food). I am not certain of the 'slow' bit.

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for escargot that I've seen before include "French food" , "Edible snail (from Fr.)" , "Hardly fast food" , "national delicacy" , "A dish of cooked land snails" .)

I've seen this clue in The Irish Times.

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