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Something tasteful for which one can hardly have a secret passion (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

garlic

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'passion' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I can't see how one could define the other.

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for garlic that I've seen before include "Pungent allium" , "Vegetable" , "Aromatic bulb used as seasoning" , "Strong-tasting bulb" , "Allium sativum" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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