Crossword Genius

Sounds like bad-tempered greengrocer's cross (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

ugli

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'cross' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for ugli that I've seen before include "Cross between Seville orange, grapefruit and tangerine" , "Sweet variety of tangelo from Jamaica" , "(Repulsive-looking?) fruit" , "West Indian citrus fruit" , "Orange-grapefruit cross" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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