Spanish wine — it's fine in France (4)

I believe the answer is:

cava

'spanish wine' is the definition.
(type of wine)

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

(Other definitions for cava that I've seen before include "Spanish fizz" , "Spanish sparkling white wine" , "Sparkler" , "sparkling drink" , "Spanish sparking wine" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.

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