Spicy starter replaced by second-rate soup (6)

I believe the answer is:

bisque

'soup' is the definition.
(bisque is a kind of soup)

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

(Other definitions for bisque that I've seen before include "golf handicap" , "Rich shellfish soup - lobster is nice" , "Cream soup made with shellfish" , "pot?" , "Rich soup made from shellfish" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.

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