Star not totally conscientious foodie? (4)

I believe the answer is:

vega

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'star' is the definition.
(Vega is an example)

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

(Other definitions for vega that I've seen before include "Brightest star of constellation Lyra" , "Bright star of constellation Lyra" , "Star in Lyra; grassy plain (Spanish)" , "First magnitude star" , "heavenly body" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.

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