Crossword Genius

Start cooking or eating around one (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

originate

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'start' is the definition.
(synonyms)

'cooking or eating around one' is the wordplay.
I cannot really see how this works, but
'or' is present in the answer.
an anagram of 'eating' is 'ginate' which is present in the answer.
'one' could be 'i' (Roman numeral) and 'i' is found within the answer.
No letters remain.
This may be the basis of clue (or it may be nonsense).

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for originate that I've seen before include "Create, initiate" , "Found" , "pioneer" , "issue" , "Bring into existence" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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