Crossword Genius

Steak: hotel dinner cooked without starter (10)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

tenderloin

'steak' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

(Other definitions for tenderloin that I've seen before include "high crime rate here" , "best cut" , "Prime cut of pork, etc" , "soft meat" , "Joint" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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