Such food as one gets at formal dinners? (7)

I believe the answer is:

starchy

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'such' is the definition.
Both the answer and definition are adjectives. Perhaps you can see an association between them that I don't see?

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

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(Other definitions for starchy that I've seen before include "Stiff and formalistic" , "Stiff, like potatoes" , "Stiff, formal" , "Conventional" , "Unbending" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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