Surprise seeing publicans finally going to the back for such wines (5)

I believe the answer is:

hocks

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'wines' is the definition.
(hock is a kind of wine)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

(Other definitions for hocks that I've seen before include "Pawns" , "Joints; wines" , "Hamstrings" , "Rhine wines" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.

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