Crossword Genius

Tea cake? Not entirely (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

gateau

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'tea cake?' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for gateau that I've seen before include "rich food" , "Fancy cake" , "(French?) cake" , "Richly decorated cake" , "Cream dessert cake" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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