Crossword Genius

Tear-jerker set in the kitchen (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

onion

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'tear-jerker' is the definition.
(cutting onions can make you cry)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for onion that I've seen before include "Aromatic flavourful versatile vegetable" , "Type of allium" , "associated with 26 [TRIPE] ?" , "one understood by expert" , "Eye-watering vegetable" .)

I've seen this clue in The Mirror.
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